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Look for hallmarks, the weight and colour of the metal, the quality of the gemstones, maker's signatures and original boxes. But the only reliable way to know what jewellery is worth is a free, no-obligation valuation by a specialist.
The quickest indicators that jewellery may be valuable are hallmarks on the metal, genuine gemstones, a maker's signature, evident weight and quality, and original boxes or paperwork. But appearances mislead in both directions: unassuming pieces regularly prove valuable, and impressive-looking pieces often do not. The only reliable answer is a specialist valuation — which at Aubreys is free and without obligation.
British gold, silver and platinum has been hallmarked for centuries. Look inside ring bands, on clasps and on the backs of brooches for tiny stamped marks. Numbers such as 375 (9 carat), 585 (14 carat), 750 (18 carat) or 916 (22 carat) indicate gold purity; a lion passant indicates sterling silver. Foreign pieces may carry different marks — or none at all — which is why unmarked pieces should never be dismissed without testing.
Old-cut diamonds in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery are strongly sought after at auction, as are natural sapphires, rubies and emeralds — particularly unheated stones with certificates. Even pieces with damaged settings retain their gem value. If a stone has noticeable fire and the piece feels substantial, it warrants expert examination.
Names such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Tiffany & Co. and Garrard can multiply a piece's value many times over. Signatures are usually discreet — engraved inside a band or on the reverse of a clasp — and are frequently missed by owners. Our guide to Cartier's Tutti Frutti jewellery shows just how significant the right name can be.
Gold is dense: a chain or bangle that feels heavy for its size is a promising sign. Hand-finished detail, well-matched stones and secure, finely made settings all point to quality. Costume jewellery, by contrast, is typically light, with glued stones and plated finishes that wear at the edges.
Original fitted boxes, receipts, certificates and family history all add value and saleability. Keep them with the piece and mention them at valuation.
Jewellery is consistently among the most undervalued categories in inherited estates — pieces dismissed as costume jewellery frequently prove to be gold, and unremarkable-looking rings often hold fine old-cut diamonds. If you are dealing with an estate, our probate and estates service includes specialist jewellery assessment as standard.
Bring your jewellery to our Guildford saleroom, send photographs through our free valuation form, or arrange a home visit anywhere in Surrey or London. Valuations are free, confidential and carry no obligation to sell — though if you choose to consign, our jewellery department places your pieces in front of thousands of bidders worldwide.
Possibly — many foreign and antique pieces are unmarked. Metal can be tested, so never discard unmarked jewellery without a professional opinion.
No. Leave pieces exactly as they are; over-cleaning can damage patina and settings, and valuers prefer to see items in original condition.
Yes. Gemstones and precious metals retain value regardless of condition, and damaged pieces regularly sell well at auction.
Auction valuations at Aubreys are entirely free, whether at our saleroom, by photograph or at your home.
Free, confidential advice from our valuation team, with home visits across Surrey and London.
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